Kuraikudam: Kailash Mansarovar Yatra

Through Yamadhwar and beyond!!

Conversation 1:

"There was an accident on the return journey 3 years ago, when the Yatri was clicking photos and carelessly stepped and fell into the raging Kali River and his body was also not traced. His wife was standing there helplessly, as she was the object of his photograph"....

" Then what is the meaning of walking through Yamadhwar, if this accident can happen to someone who has completed the Parikrama and returning home?"

"He might not have walked through Yamadhwar... many yatris do not take it seriously, and they do not walk through Yamadhwar"

" How do you know that this yatri did not walk through Yamadhwar... "

"He was a NRI who had just come for Yatra and was continuously flaunting his trekking part than the spiritual or religious part of the yatra"...

" That means, it is a choice - yatri can walk through or not walk through Yamadhwar"..

"yeah... it is something like that"

Conversation 2:

"do not worry... I am with you all and hence all of you are safe"

"how are you so sure?"

"because I have walked through Yamadhwar - I cannot die of accidents, but will have natural death only - as I am with you all, I will take care of you all also"

"so, round about way, we are also protected from accidents through you???"

"yes... absolutely"

Conversation 3:

"Yamadhwar is really a place where Yama is there - you should go through that - which makes Yama prevent your accidental death"

"oh... so, those who walk through Yamadhwar will not have accidental death??"

"yes... so do not miss it"

The above conversations 1 and 2 had happened between me and Narayanji from Bangalore. Narayan had done this Yatra in 2006 and this year he had come with his wife Radha!

Conversation 3 is between me and Mr V S Iyer, my friend who completed this yatra from Nepal side three years back.

We set out in a big volvo bus from Darchen towards the point from where four wheelers cannot proceed. From this point, our Tibet side trekking starts. Our Parikrama (Pradakshina) starts from this point!

We reached well in time looking forward to the sighting of Mount Kailash. There were 7 or 8 more buses that reached this point full with Indians who had come for Kailash Parikrama via Kathmandu, Nepal. We waited for the porters and ponies to arrive. We could see the sacred Mount Kailash from this point very clearly - the Mount looked inviting!

The allotment of porter and pony is through lottery system. Names of the porter / pony is written on chits. Each yatri should come in a line and pick a chit - the name of the porter / ponywalla that is written there will be called out and that person will come as your porter / ponywalla.

As always, I waited at the tail end of the queue (probability of bigger choice keeps getting reduced in the tail-end) as I do not want to rush for any place anywhere. My turn came and "Renchan" was called out. A thin short guy came and took my hand and literally dragged me near his pony. That is the way they interact with the yatris as they do not know Hindi and we do not know Mandarin or Tibetan language. We were warned of this and were told not to take offense. I had opted for just pony and no porter on Tibet side, as I had just my backpack which was weighing hardly 2 kgs now with just the common money, my money, passport, minimum medicines, one set of clothes and water bottle!

By now, others have proceeded further walking or on pony. Indians who had come from Kathmandu were also taking ponies and they were coming with us at this point. We crossed a place where many cloth flags were put up. I asked Renchan by way of action what it is - he answered "Yamadhwar". I got down from the pony and walked through the place praying for all - family, friends and relatives!

Photo courtesy : Sachin from Bangalore... Yamadwar seen in this photo - Mount Kailash is seen in the background - covered with cloud at the tip!

I wanted to walk from that point but Renchan made me sit on pony and we proceeded further. Suddenly, he stopped at a place where other ponies were standing and made me get down and go with him inside a tent. I thought that they may be serving tea or water for all Yatris and went inside. I found all ponywallas eating there - I showed action to Renchan that he can eat and come and I will wait outside. He wanted me to pay for his food and found out how much it is - it was 20 yuans ( 10 yuans for something looking like noodles, 5 for a bottle of soft-drink, 5 yuans each for 2 bottles of mineral water). I paid the money and waited outside the tent.

Apparently, this quiet obedience to his instruction made him happy and he decided that he will be good to me! He never bothered me any more - in fact, at another place, I volunteered to buy him soft drink and water. All the 3 days that we travelled together, he was very good, helpful and concerned about my safety.

This uneventful trek of 6 kms on pony ended at Deraphuk (16600 feet above mean sea level). I was one of the early persons to reach the camp as Renchan made sure that his pony literally galloped and not just walk with me!

The Parikrama route was beautiful - a river was flowing - at some point, waterfall was seen - the route goes on plain road with rocky mountains on both sides...

As this is the first day of the parikrama, I was in a mixed mood of happiness and anxiety.